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 Använd automatisk alternativexponering
Exponeringskompensation eller blixt
Ta bilder på barn från deras perspektiv
Använd vitbalansen för att få de korrekta färgerna
Use the zoom to give flowers a more solid feel
Macro only possible on compact digital cameras
The trick is to press the lens right up against the glass
A histogram is handy for shooting in bright places
How slow synchronization works
ISO sensitivity, tripods, noise and picture quality
Use White Balance to alter your photo's impression
Let's try using Filters
Using the focus lock correctly
Select White Balance depending on the lighting conditions
Shoot flowers of a tree from a high point
Control the shadow by adjusting the lighting
Let's try using Special Effect Filters
Two ways of reducing blur
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Använd automatisk alternativexponering
Vid fotografering av stillbilder, är det ofta svårt att avgöra vilken exponeringsinställning som ska användas. En stor fördel med digitala kameror är att du kan radera bilder du inte vill ha direkt efteråt. Därför rekommenderar vi att ta bilder med olika exponeringsinställningar, för att garantera att du får en bra bild. I dessa fall är funktionen för alternativexponering (BKT) - om din kamera har den - mycket användbar. BKT är en funktion som tillåter dig att ta ett gäng bilder med gradvis förändring av exponeringskompensationen. Du kan ta så många bilder som behövs bara genom att hålla avtryckaren nere.
På de flesta kameramodeller, finns BKT i DRIVE-läget i menyn. Du kan se förändringarna i exponeringskompensationen samt antalet bilder som kommer att tas.
* Detta är menygränssnittet på SP-500 UZ.
För att ta en bild, håll avtryckaren nere. Bilderna kommer att lagras i följande ordning; Om du släpper avtryckaren i mitten av sekvensen, kommer endast de första bilderna att sparas.
Bilderna kommer att sparas fråm vänster till höger, i följande ordning:
[BKT] Korrigeringsvärde: 1.0 / Antal bilder: 5
Bilderna kommer att sparas från vänster till höger, i följande ordning:
[BKT] Korrigeringsvärde: 1.0 / Antal bilder: 5
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Exponeringskompensation eller blixt
Vid fotografering inomhus eller på en plats som är dåligt upplyst, behöver du ändra kamerainställningarna så att motivet blir korrekt upplyst. Det finns två olika sätt; att använda exponeringskompensation eller blixt. Vilket sätt du ska använda beror på förutsättningarna för att ta bilden, samt hur du vill använda bilden när den väl är tagen. Det är enkelt att använda blixten för att lysa upp ett motiv. Men när du använder blixt, kan bilden få ett onaturligt intryck, då blixten tar bort alla naturliga skuggor. Detta kan undvikas med användandet av exponeringskompensation, som behåller de natuliga skuggorna och ljuset i bilden. Dock blir slutartiden längre, vilket i sin tur ökar risken för suddiga bilder orsakade av att kameran eller motivet rör på sig. Om du befinner dig i en sådan situation, kan ISO-känsligheten på kameran ökas för att minska risken för suddiga bilder, men en ökning av ISO-värdet kan även resultera i mer brusiga bilder. Det finns ingen definitivt svar på vilket metod som är bäst, så det allra säkraste är att ta bilden med både blixt och exponeringskompensation.
Jämför dessa bilder, som är tagna med exponeringskompensation och blixt
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Bild tagen med exponeringskompensation: Motivets ansiktsuttryck och det inkommande ljuset syns tydligt, men de ljusa delarna i bakgrunden är överexponerade. |
Bild tagen med blixt: Hela bilden är bra upplyst, men ljuset och atmosfären känns konstgjord och inte helt verklighetstrogen. |
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Ta bilder på barn från deras perspektiv
När du tar bilder på barn eller på platser där barn leker, försök få bilderna på deras nivå, och inte ovanifrån. Om du tar bilderna från en vuxens perspektiv kommer de få en känsla av att titta ner på barnen, och visa nästan bara huvuden och inga ansiktsuttyck. När dessutom perspektiven förstärks med vidvinkelszoom (W), kommer barnens huvuden att se större ut, medan deras kroppar ser mindre ut än i verkligheten. Genom att sätta dig på huk och ta bilderna från barnens egen nivå, kommer du få mycket bättre resultat.
Försök med olika nivåer.
Bilder tagna från förälderns nivå:
När bilden tas från förälderns nivå, ser huvudet förstorat ut och det är svårt att se barnets ansiktsuttryck. Dessutom gör marken som bakgrund att bilden blir trist.
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Bild tagen från barnets nivå
När en bild tas på detta vis, genom ett barns ögon,
blir ansiksuttrycken tydligare. Försök att sätta dig
på huk och ta bilden och se världen från barnens
ögon.
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Bilder tagna från en höjd under barnets nivå
Ibland kan det vara spännande att ta bilder från en ytterligare lägre nivå. Då perspektiven förstärks med en vidvinkelzoom (W), kommer benen se längre ut, vilket i sin tur resulterar i en längre och smalare figur. Kompakta digitalkameror är tillräckligt små och lätta för att du utan problem ska kunna ta bilder väldigt nära marken utan att behöva använda den optiska sökaren.
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Använd vitbalansen för att få de korrekta färgerna
Det finns ett oändligt antal blommer, och ett oändligt antal färger. En digitalkamera kan ibland inte fånga de korrekta färgerna hos en blomma. Till exempel, ljusrosa blommor kan på bilden se vita ut. Samma sak gäller för ljust gula bommor. Försök att ändra inställningen för vitbalans, för att på så sätt få ut färgerna på dessa blommor. Vitbalansen är ofta inställd på [AUTO], om du inte ändrar den. I många fall kan en liten förändring till [ ] eller [ ] få fram de allra svagaste färgnyanserna. Försök att ändra vitbalansen så snart du märker att färgerna inte blir likadana på bilden som i verkligheten.
Jämför olika effekter av vitbalansjustering
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Bild tagen med WB på AUTO
(Vitbalans = Auto) TFärgen på blomman
är mycket mer matt än i verkligheten.
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Bild tagen med WB
(Vitbalans = Solig Dag) Den rosa färgen
på blomman känns lite för stark.
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Bild tagen med WB
(Vitbalans = Molnig Dag) Vitbalasen är
justerad så att de röda tonerna förstärks,
då de blå tonerna har en tendens att
bli starkare vid molniga dagar. Notera
att de röda tonerna på gräset i bakgrunden
också har förstärkts. |
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Use the zoom to give flowers a more solid feel
The camera has a built-in zoom. The zoom can enable taking pictures of a wide area using a wide angle setting or enlarge distant objects using a telephoto setting. It allows you to both adjust the area being captured and produce a variety of effects. For example, if you take a picture in an area where there are many flowers blooming, using a wide angle setting gives the impression that the flowers are spaced some distance apart. Using a telephoto setting decreases the distance between the flowers, giving the impression that the flowers are blooming close together. The perspective appears more compact than the distance perceived by the eye. This is known as “Perspective Compression”, and it makes it appear as though there are more flowers.
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The same background with the flower
appearing farther away, giving the
impression that the flowers are only
blooming sparsely. |
The same background with the flower
appearing much closer, giving the
impression that the flowers are
blooming richly. |
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Macro only possible on compact digital cameras
With a compact digital camera, you can take a close-up of one part of a subject just by selecting the macro setting. You can easily take close-ups of flowers, and a compact camera really can take macro pictures that can give a single-reflex camera a run for its money. These are wide angle macro pictures. With a single-lens reflex camera, it is hard to take close-up pictures with the wide field angle that a compact camera has. There are no lenses for this purpose, either. Taking wide angle macro pictures - wide macro photography - is a photography technique that can only be performed on compact cameras. Although the feeling you can produce with a large unfocused area using a telephoto lens on a single-lens reflex camera is hard to match, wide macro is a speciality of the compact camera.
Compare these pictures taken from different angles
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Maximum close-up in normal macro
mode The subject is enlarged, but the
surrounding scene is unclear. |
Close-up in super macro mode The
subject has been enlarged, and the
surrounding scene is also visible. |
* With some camera models, the zoom will be fixed to zoom-in even in super macro mode.
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The trick is to press the lens right up against the glass
When you take pictures through glass, for example pictures of fish at an aquarium, one thing you should be aware of is the light reflecting on the glass. Indoor lights or lights from the surrounding aquatic tanks are often reflected in the glass, and if you take pictures normally, the fish do not appear clearly. There are also times when the camera itself is reflected in the glass and shows up in the picture. You can take great-looking pictures and prevent all of these unwanted reflections by pressing the camera lens right up against the glass when you take your pictures. You yourself may also be reflected in the glass and appear in the picture if you are wearing bright-colored clothing. You can avoid this by wearing darker colors. You can use this technique not only in aquariums, but also when you take pictures of night scenes from building observation decks. The key to taking aquarium or night scene pictures is to press the lens right up against the glass.
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Reflection of the photographer is
visible on the aquarium glass. |
Picture taken with the camera lens
pressed against the aquarium glass.
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A histogram is handy for shooting in bright places
When you use a compact digital camera, you usually look at the monitor when taking a picture. Some cameras do not have optical viewfinders that are available on conventional film cameras. A monitor allows you to accurately frame your pictures and is convenient because of the various information that it displays. However, it may be difficult to see the monitor when outdoors on a sunny day because of the surrounding light. Not only is framing the picture difficult, it is also hard to determine the right level of exposure. A histogram can be an effective way to determine the exposure when it is difficult to see the monitor. A histogram displays the distribution of light in the subject that is framed, and is a convenient tool for determining the exposure in bright, outdoor locations. Unlike the exposure meter, a histogram displays the light distribution. You may need some time to get used to using a histogram, but once you do, it can be very convenient.
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Shot at correct exposure:
The histogram graph is not
touching the left or right border,
and no part of the picture is
balck-crushed (underexposed)
or white-clipped (overexposed).
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Shot using +1.0 exposure
compensation: The histogram graph
is touching the right border. In the
picture, the white flower is
white-clipped (overexposed),
resulting in burnt-out highlight
details. |
Shot using -1.0 exposure
compensation: The histogram graph
is touching the left border. In the
picture, areas other than the white
flower are black-crushed
(underexposed), resulting in loss
of details. |
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How slow synchronization works
For taking pictures using the flash in [SCENE] modes like [NIGHT+PORTRAIT], a shooting method called slow synchnozation is used. Note that you will need to familiarize yourself with various operations if you wish to use slow synchronization shooting without relying on predefined settings such as [NIGHT+PORTRAIT]. When you use slow synchronization mode, such as in the [NIGHT+PORTRAIT] shooting mode for example, you can avoid mistakes by understanding how the camera works. Let's look at how the operation works in order.
1. Have the subject to stand at a distance where he/she will be adequately illuminated with the flash. Make sure that the subject is standing close to the camera as the light of the built-in flash does not travel very far. Also, the light of the flash is stronger when the background is dark and far away. It may also help to adjust the exposure compensation to a negative value.
2. Set the shutter speed so that the background can be shot at the right brightness without using the flash. Make sure that the background is illuminated by the lighting and can be captured nicely using a slow shutter speed. You can set the shutter speed independently on cameras that have S (Shutter Priority Auto) and/or M (Manual) mode.
3. Take the picture with the shutter speed set in 2 above using the flash, and slow synchronization shooting is complete. You can easily perform slow synchronization shooting if your camera has the [NIGHT+PORTRAIT] shooting mode. Even if this shooting mode is not available on your camera, you can achieve the same effect if your camera has a [SLOW] option in the flash setting.
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ISO sensitivity, tripods, noise and picture quality
Det finns två sätt att ta bilder på när det är mörkt runt omkring. Antingen kan du använda ett stativ för att stabilisera kameran och sedan använda en långsam slutartid, eller så kan du höja ISO-inställningarna så att slutartiden inte blir så långsam. Problemet är att höga ISO-inställningar ökar bildbruset, och därmed risken för att bilderna blir korniga. Även vid användning av låga ISO-inställningar kan bilden bli kornig, och du har en långsam slutartid. För att förhindra detta kan man såklart undvika att ta bilder när det är helt mörkt, utan försöka ta dem när det fortfarande är en aning ljust. Det lilla, svaga ljuset är tillräckligt för att slutartiden inte ska bli så långsam eller att ISO-inställningarna inte behöver vara så höga. Använd dock ett stativ, oavsett hur mörkt det är, för slutartiden är fortfarande så pass långsam att det är omöjligt att förhindra suddiga bilder orsakade av darrande händer, hur stadig du än kan vara på handen.
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Use White Balance to alter your photo's impression
When taking pictures of night scenes, most light sources are artificial. There is the fluorescent light that spills out of buildings, mercury lamps, and many other types of lights. To take pictures in colors closer to real life, leave the white balance setting to [AUTO]. Changing the white balance modes to [], [ ] or [ ] results in different color tones, creating pictures with a different feel from those shot in [AUTO] mode. You can experiment using different settings.
Let's try changing the WB (white balance) setting
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WB at AUTO
Using [AUTO], you can normally take
good pictures even if different types
of lighting are mixed. |
Set to [Sunny Day]
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Set to [Cloudy Day] You can take
a warmer looking picture with slightly
accentuated red tones.
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Set to [Tungsten] This setting
eliminates the reddish cast emitted by
the light bulb (tungsten lighting),
resulting in accentuated blue tones. |
[Fluorescent] is not significantly
different from [AUTO], as night
scene lighting is relatively similar. |
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Let's try using Filters
There are two types of lens filters available: (1) general filters that are used to reproduce colors accurately; and (2) special effect filters that are used to create special photographic effects. General filters include skylight, ND and PL filters. By getting familiar with the characteristics and effects of each filter, you can use a compact digital camera to shoot pictures that rival those taken with an SLR camera.
[Skylight filter/UV filter]
This colorless, transparent filter does not affect visible light, and is mainly used for the purpose of absorbing ultraviolet light. Ultraviolet is invisible to human eye, but it can have a subduing or dulling effect on picture colors.This filter is used to allow correct color reproduction by means of absorbing ultraviolet light. This filter is available in several different types depending on the UV absorption rate. However, it is used more frequently for the purpose of protecting the lens as all camera lenses have UV absorption coating themselves.
[PL filter]
Also known as a polarizing filter. This filter is also used in sunglasses. It has the effect of reproducing vibrant colors by eliminating light reflection. A PL filter for photo shooting has a dual frame structure. You can remove the light reflection by mounting the filter on the camera and rotating the filter frame. You need to use the circularly polarized type of this filter. Let's look at some examples of the effects that can be obtained using a PL filter.
Reduce the reflection on water surfaces
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Without PL filter |
With PL filter |
Obtain more vibrant blues for the sky
How to use PL filters
When using a PL filter, you should be aware of the conditions when it is most effective. When shooting a water surface, this filter is most effective when the camera's angle is between 30 to 40 degrees against the light-reflecting plane. You cannot obtain good effects if the camera is almost completely horizontal or vertical to the plane. When taking pictures of the sky, it is most effective when the camera's angle is around 90 degrees against the light-reflecting plane. The angle is not as important in the case of the light reflection on the surfaces of tree leaves, and good results can be obtained with relative ease. You can always check the effects in the monitor as you rotate the filter frame, so take pictures while checking the effects as needed depending on the shooting conditions.
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| Shooting water surfaces |
Shooting the sky |
[ND filter]
This filter is used to reduce the amount of light that enters the lens. If you wish to capture the flow of the water or the motion of the subject in your picture, you need to use slow shutter speed. However, slow shutter speed cannot be used if there is too much light. ND filter allows you to use slower shutter speeds by reducing the amount of light. Thanks to this filter, you can use slow shutter speeds even if you are not able to set smaller aperture values. A several types of ND filters (e.g. ND2, ND4, ND8, etc.) are available depending on the amount of light it can reduce. The larger the number, the bigger the amount of light the filter reduces. Let's look at some examples of the effects that can be obtained using a ND filter.
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Using the focus lock correctly
Out-of-focus is one of the biggest reasons for feeling that a picture is not shot well. There are many causes for out-of-focus pictures. One common case is where you intended to focus on the subject, but the actual focus was on its foreground or background, or on a different subject. The focus lock would come in handy in such a case. Focus lock allows you to set the focus on the desired focusing point beforehand, and then move the camera to obtain the desired composition.
Taking a commemorative picure with an art object in the background: To obtain a clear view of the art object, the two people stood apart from each other, but this resulted in the camera focusing on the background rather than on the people in the front. Let's use the focus lock to make the camera focus on the people.
Familiarize yourself with the shutter button operations first. Press down the shutter button slowly. When you have gently pressed in the button halfway, you will feel resistance and the button will stop there. You can press down the button further by putting a little more force in your finger. Pressing the shutter button down until you feel resistance is referred to as "pressed halfway", and pressing the button all the way down is referred to as "pressed completely". The camera sets the focus on the subject when the shutter button is "pressed halfway", and takes the picture when "pressed completely".
Move the camera and set the focus on one of the two people. Make sure to check in the monitor as you do this. The camera produces a beeping sound when the subject snaps into focus. The picture in the monitor will also be in focus. You can check the actual focusing point by the AF target mark displayed on the screen. The  is also displayed on the screen when proper focus is attained. If the camera has failed to attain proper focus, it will not produce a beeping sound and the will blink. In such a case, let go of the shutter button and then press it again. While the shutter button is pressed halfway, the camera will maintain its focus setting. The camera will remain in this status until you press the shutter button completely.
Keep the shutter button pressed halfway, and move the camera back to the desired composition. Press the shutter button down completely without letting go of the button (i.e. keep it pressed halfway). The shutter is released (the picture is shot).
Let's look at some examples where the focus lock function comes in handy.
Taking pictures of flower fields in full blossom: There are similar-looking flowers everywhere, and sometimes you cannot get the camera to focus exactly on the flower you want. Let's try locking the focus on the exact flower that you want to shoot.
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The camera focuses on the flower
near the picture center |
Lock the focus on the flowers in the
front, and then adjust the composition. |
When taking pictures of a fast-moving subject, the camera often cannot attain proper focus in time even if you press the shutter button at the right moment. In such a case, you can lock the focus beforehand on something that is at the same distance as the subject, and press the shutter button completely when the subject enters the frame. In this example, the focus is locked on the ball beforehand, and you are waiting for the right timing for the shot while keeping the shutter button pressed halfway.
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Press the shutter button completely
exactly when the dolphin touches
the ball |
Lock the focus on the ball beforehand
and stand by
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Select White Balance depending on the lighting conditions
Many types of lamps are used for lighting. Although similar in appearance, there are also several different types of fluorescent lamps, such as daylight fluorescent and white fluorescent lamps. The color of the light differs for each type of lighting. Therefore, shooting the same white subject under different lightings can result in bluish or reddish pictures. White balance is a function that allows you to avoid these light color influences and take pictures in correct colors. If you have difficulty shooting in correct colors, try changing the white balance setting.
This picture was taken with the light that comes in through a paper screen and a light bulb illuminating the interior
[] leaves a reddish cast emitted by the light bulb (tungsten lighting) unchanged, but you can accurately capture the atmosphere of the place. You can set the white balance mode to [] if you wish to shoot in correct colors. However, as the camera tries to reduce the red tones, the blue tones of the sunlight behind the paper screen will be accentuated.
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Shoot flowers of a tree from a high point
There are many trees that bloom flowers including cherry, plum and magnolia. If you shoot tree flowers from under the tree, you are likely to end up with flower pictures with sky as the background. The contrast will be beautiful if the sky is blue, but the whole picture will become rather dull in the case of gray skies. In such a case, try shooting from a different viewpoint. Shooting from a distance using a telephoto lens will let you take a picture without the sky as the background. A telephoto lens will also give flowers a more solid feel, thereby producing more stereoscopic pictures. If there is a higher point nearby, you can accentuate your picture by shooting it from a bird's-eye-view. The trick for shooting tree flowers is "from a high point, using a telephoto lens".
Compare these pictures taken from different angles
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Shot from a high location using
a telephoto lens |
Shot looking up at the tree, resulting in
sky background |
Shot at same height as tree, resulting in
other trees obstructing view |
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Control the shadow by adjusting the lighting
The brightness is often insufficient when taking pictures indoors. However, you do not need to prepare an extensive lighting set-up. You can utilize the light that comes in through the window. Soft lighting can be obtained by placing the subject near the window where the light shines in. However, the subject will produce a shadow as the light hits it from one direction. Pictures containing hard shadows do not look very impressive, but you can use a simple household object to fix this problem.
The subject was placed near the window where the light shines in
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The brightness may be OK, but shadows
will appear where the light does not
directly hit, resulting in a contrast
between light and dark. |
A sheet of drawing paper was used to reflect some of the light from the window onto the subject
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The light also reaches the other side of
the subject where there is no window,
and the brightness is well balanced
throughout the picture. |
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Let's try using Special Effect Filters
There are two types of lens filters available: (1) general filters that are used to reproduce colors accurately; and (2) special effect filters that are used to create special photographic effects. Typical special effect filters include cross filters, softening filters, etc. These are effective when you want to change the atmosphere in the picture.
Cross Filter
Fine grid lines are engraved on the glass surface of these filters. When shooting decorative lights or similar scenes, the lights in the picture will shine as little crosses. The stronger the light sources in the picture, the more pronounced the effect will be. You can observe the effect by simply holding the filter over the lens, so you can take the picture while checking the effect on the screen. Many times these filters include double frames so by rotating the frame you can change the direction of the light crosses.
Soft Focus Filter
With these filters you can soften contours in the image to obtain a softer, hazy picture. When you shoot decorative lights with a soft focus filter, you can get a picture with a dreamlike ethereal effect. These filters can also be used to shoot portraits. You can observe the effect by simply holding the filter over the lens, so you can take the picture while checking the effect on the screen.
Other filters
Special effect filters include also diffusion filters that result in a clear image at the center but blur the surroundings, color effect filters that create special color effects, and close-up filters useful when you want to enlarge the subject as if with a magnifying glass.
There are numerous other types of special effect filters designed for SLR cameras. These filters are attached to the lens so it is necessary to match the size of the filter to the diameter of the lens of the SLR camera. With compact digital cameras there aren't many models where a filter can be attached to the lens, but you can still use filters by holding them over the lens and checking the effect on the monitor.
Note that when using special effect filters it may be difficult to focus correctly. First mount the camera on a tripod and press the shutter button halfway to lock the focus. Keeping the shutter button pressed halfway, hold the filter over the lens.
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Two ways of reducing blur
When the subject is not illuminated enough, the camera will try to keep the shutter open longer so as to let more light in. This situation is referred to as a slow shutter. If the camera or the subject moves at such a time, it will appear as blur in the picture. The camera offers two ways of preventing this: (1) Using higher ISO sensitivities and (2) Using the CCD-shift Image Stabilizer function.
How does shutter speed affect the picture?
When will the picture be blurred?
1. If you move the camera when you press the shutter button.
2. When the movement of the subject is faster than the shutter speed and it cannot be 'frozen'.
3. When you use the zoom or the macro mode to enlarge the subject.
The reason for camera blur is the same in cases 1 and 3. However, when the subject is enlarged, even smaller movements of the camera will be magnified and appear as blur in the picture.
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1. Shutter Speed: 1/2
second. The movement of
the camera appears as
blurring in the picture.
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2. Shutter Speed:
1/40 second. The subject
moved as the shutter
was activated.
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3. Zooming in to enlarge
the subject. The shutter
speed is not particularly
slow but smaller movements
are magnified. |
Using higher ISO sensitivities
By increasing the sensitivity to light, the use of slow shutter speeds can be avoided. The camera will automatically use higher ISO sensitivities to match the brightness of the subject.
Using higher ISO sensitivities makes the use of slow shutter speeds unnecessary.
Using higher ISO sensitivities results in more noise in the picture, giving it a grainier appearance.
This method is more effective when your priority is to take a picture without blurring and without using the flash, even if the quality of the picture is slightly reduced. This way you can also 'freeze' the movement in the picture.
Using CCD-shift Image Stabilizer function
This image stabilization method involves mechanically moving the CCD - the image capturing device that serves as the 'film' of the camera.
The shutter speed and ISO sensitivity will not be affected whether or not the digital image stabilization is activated. Slower shutter speeds will be used depending on the subject's brightness.
It may not be possible to prevent all blurring when it is too dark and the shutter speed is set too slow. Also, it may not be possible to reduce blurring when there is too much movement.
Since a slow shutter speed is used, the blurring will be prevented but water flowing and lights of cars will still leave a trailing image.
* In Olympus cameras the CCD-shift image stabilization is referred to simply as "Image Stabilizer".
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